FAQ — We answer.

PO-YOUTH is the ideal formula for your rooster. It contains 18% protein to maintain his vigor and health — and only 1% calcium, a safe level for male kidneys. In a pinch, PO-START (20% protein, 1% calcium) can be used for a few days, but isn't formulated for long-term use.

Layer feed contains 4.20 to 4.25% calcium — 4 times more than a rooster needs. Male kidneys aren't designed to eliminate this excess. Long term (weeks to months), this surplus causes: renal calcification (nephrosis), chronic kidney failure, calcium deposits on vital organs, progressive loss of appetite, then premature death. Early symptoms are often invisible — the rooster seems fine until damage is advanced.

Two options depending on your situation:

Best option: Physically separate feeding. Install a raised feeder (40–50 cm high) with PO-YOUTH only for the rooster — hens can't reach it. Hens keep their normal layer feed with the required calcium.

Practical option: Feed PO-YOUTH to the whole flock (rooster + hens). Hens then get less calcium from the feed — compensate by offering free-choice oyster shells. Hens will help themselves as needed. The rooster generally won't touch them since he doesn't need them.

Switch to PO-YOUTH as soon as possible. If the rooster seems healthy (active, good appetite, good feathering), damage may still be limited. Consult an avian vet if you notice weakness, lethargy, excessive water drinking or appetite loss — these are early signs of kidney failure.

No, not if you use PO-WINTER or PO-SUMMER for your layers. Both formulas already contain the necessary calcium (4.20 to 4.25%). Adding oyster shells on top creates a potentially dangerous excess long-term. Exception: if you feed your whole flock (including rooster) with PO-YOUTH for a mixed flock — in that case, yes, offer free-choice oyster shells for the hens.

Because calcium needs vary dramatically by age and function:

• Chick (PO-START): 1% — young kidneys can't handle more
• Growth (PO-YOUTH): 1% — bone building, no laying
• Pre-lay (PO-PRELAY): 2% — ovaries developing, gentle transition
• Summer laying (PO-SUMMER): 4.20% — shell formation
• Winter laying (PO-WINTER): 4.25% — slightly higher to compensate winter physiology

Giving the wrong formula at the wrong time — too much calcium too early, not enough during laying — has direct, measurable consequences.

Several possible causes:

1. Wrong feed formula: Make sure you're using PO-SUMMER or PO-WINTER (not PO-PRELAY or PO-YOUTH) for your layers
2. Lack of water: Shell formation requires a lot of water — make sure waterers are always full
3. Heat stress in summer: Heat reduces calcium absorption — PO-SUMMER is formulated to address this
4. Aging hens: After 2–3 years of laying, shell quality naturally declines
5. Disease: Consult a vet if the problem persists

Go by nighttime temperature, not daytime. Switch to PO-SUMMER when nights consistently stay above 10°C — typically in May in Quebec. Switch back to PO-WINTER when nights consistently drop below 10°C — usually in October. The switch can be gradual over 1–2 weeks by mixing both formulas if you want to avoid any abrupt change.

Yes — and here's why concretely. In winter, a laying hen spends up to 30% more energy keeping warm. If the feed doesn't provide enough protein and energy, she redirects resources to thermoregulation and production drops. PO-WINTER compensates with 18% protein (vs 16% in summer) and an adapted energy profile. In practice: keepers who switch formulas seasonally see better year-round laying consistency.

Yes, you can use up your PO-WINTER stock in early spring without issue — the formula is complete and safe. There's no urgency to switch on an exact date. Ideally, plan your supply so the transition happens naturally when the bag runs out, around mid-May. Just avoid keeping PO-WINTER all summer — hens perform better with PO-SUMMER when it's hot.

Yes, this is scientifically documented. Omega-3 fatty acids (mainly ALA) from flaxseeds are metabolized by the hen and end up in the egg yolk. The result is visible: a more orange, firmer yolk with a measurably higher omega-3 content. The lag time is 3 to 5 days after starting consumption. If you sell eggs, you can legitimately label them "omega-3 enriched" (check your province's labelling standards).

Yolk color depends on several factors:

• The feed: Flaxseeds and corn contribute to pigmentation. With Grain du Coin, the yolk is naturally more orange.
• Access to fresh grass: Hens that forage produce more colorful yolks — chlorophyll and carotenoids from grass accumulate in the yolk.
• Breed: Some breeds naturally produce paler yolks than others.
• Season: In winter, without access to grass, yolks are often a bit paler — this is normal.

Feed is rarely the only cause, but it can contribute. Check in order:

1. Is the formula right for her age? A layer needs PO-WINTER or PO-SUMMER
2. Are feeders always full? A hungry hen stops laying quickly
3. Is there enough light? Less than 14 hours of light per day slows or stops laying
4. Is she moulting? Moulting is normal and temporarily suspends laying
5. Is there stress? New predator, flock change, extreme heat
6. Is she sick? Consult a vet if other causes are ruled out

A gradual transition is ideal to avoid digestive upset. Over 5 to 7 days: start with 75% old / 25% new, then 50/50, then 25/75, then 100% new formula. In practice, transitions between Grain du Coin formulas are smooth since the base ingredients remain similar — some keepers switch directly without transition and see no issues. Do what feels right for you.

PO-PRELAY isn't mandatory, but it's strongly recommended. Going straight from 1% calcium (PO-YOUTH) to 4.20% (PO-SUMMER) is an abrupt change for a pullet's reproductive organs. Typical consequences of skipping PO-PRELAY: later first eggs, soft shells at the start of laying, irregular production for the first few weeks. It's not catastrophic, but the 4 weeks of PO-PRELAY make a real difference in early laying performance.

It depends heavily on breed. Generally:

• Light breeds (Leghorn, ISA Brown): 18 to 20 weeks
• Dual-purpose breeds (Sussex, Plymouth Rock): 20 to 24 weeks
• Heavy or heritage breeds (Orpington, Brahma): 24 to 30 weeks

Early signs: reddening of the comb and wattles, nest-seeking behavior, "squatting" posture when you approach. This is the right time to switch to PO-PRELAY if not already done, then to PO-WINTER or PO-SUMMER.